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Concept

Journal of design research and innovation

Study of body shapes and physiognomy

Exploring Surrealist-Inspired Pattern-Making: Innovative Techniques and Sustainable Approaches in Fashion Design

Abstract

This project was developed through an exhaustive study of pattern-making in fashion, focusing on the exploration of forms inspired by surrealist art. This artistic movement, renowned for its dreamlike and unconventional imagery, serves as a rich source of inspiration for creating innovative garments that challenge the traditional norms of design.

From a pattern-making perspective, various systems have been explored, ranging from traditional methods to cutting-edge techniques. Among the most recognised systems are the Martí system and the Isa system, both employing technical approaches generally adapted to the standard sizes set by the fashion industry.

In contrast to these conventional methods, ‘zero waste’ pattern-making has been implemented—an approach that uses geometric shapes to create versatile, multi-positional garments while minimising fabric waste. Made-to-measure pattern-making has also played a key role, involving precise tailoring to each individual’s body structure through bespoke patterns crafted to the client’s exact measurements.

The use of a scale mannequin has facilitated experimentation with different proportions and configurations, enabling the visualisation of how these surrealist-inspired shapes interact dynamically with the human form. Furthermore, various textile techniques have been employed to evaluate and reinterpret established volumes, including draping, pleating, and fabric manipulation, further enhancing the exploration of form and texture.

Ana Belén Santos–Orejón Peña

Concept Magazine Vol. 3 - 2024